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France Fashion Valentino 25
A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Sunday, Sept. 29, 2024 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Valentino's new designer puts on maximalist Paris ready-to-wear debut

Alessandro Michele’s Valentino debut signaled a transformation, with a stage set like a living room in flux, evoking a sense of renewal

By THOMAS ADAMSON
Published - Sep 29, 2024, 11:30 AM ET
Last Updated - Dec 16, 2024, 06:49 PM EST

PARIS (AP) — Alessandro Michele’s eagerly awaited ready-to-wear Paris Fashion Week debut at Valentino was unveiled in a setting that hinted at a transformation— a living room in flux. Stools, ladders, and lamps shrouded beneath white blankets evoked a house renovation, signaling not just change, but a conscious revival of past glories. The scene, poetic and subdued, perfectly set the stage for a “maximalist-lite” spectacle that was equally haunted by history and illuminated by Michele’s unique flair.

Meanwhile, under the soaring ceilings of the École des Beaux Arts, overlooking the Seine, Sean McGirr’s sophomore ready-to-wear show for Alexander McQueen arrived with a palpable sense of relief. The shift in setting — from a bleak industrial warehouse outside Paris to this iconic venue — reflected a fresh start for McGirr, whose uncertain debut had left critics shivering, both literally and figuratively. Now, with the benefit of more time to prepare, McGirr appeared more at ease, though hints of his sometimes overly simplistic approach still lingered.

Here are some highlights of spring-summer 2025 ready-to-wear shows:

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